Risha is a narrow textile, no more than 30 cms wide and 160 cms long, woven and worn by women of the indigenous tribes of Tripura as a breast cloth wrapped around the upper body. Made on a simple back-strap loom fashioned locally out of bamboo, these textiles have existed since antiquity and are an indicator of a self-sufficient way of life characteristic of tribal societies in the north eastern region of India. Each tribe wove for their own needs and identified with a distinct set of colours and motifs drawn from their natural surroundings, which when seen collectively, deepens one’s appreciation of the range of creative expression and skill intrinsic to the craft.

This study documents 32 such traditional rishas, divided into two groups- one that features some very rare examples in silk and precious metallic thread from the late 19th century worn by royalty and the other, a collection of cotton pieces from the 1970’s woven by commoners in different tribal villages across the state. Each set is accompanied by archival photographs of women wearing the risha and other styles of clothing from the eras in question, helping the reader to imagine the different historical contexts in which these breast cloths existed. The text, in parallel, analyses the major cultural influences and events of the time that would have had a bearing on this tradition, outlining the reasons for the disappearance of this textile from the royal household and tracing its transition from being a functional garment for everyday use to acquiring symbolic status in the context of modern-day identity politics in the north east.

This issue is now available for purchase from Marg's website.

The royals of Tripura saw a stream of art enthusiasts starting from Raja Bir Chandra Manikya, who ascended the throne in 1862. Bir Chandra was keenly interested in poetry, art, music and literature. Amongst his main interests was photography. Owner of one of the first two cameras that came into India (the second one being owned by Raja Deen Dayal), Bir Chandra took several photographs of his wives, children and subjects from his court.

These photographs have inadvertently come to be some of the oldest photographic records in India, all having been taken between 1862 and 1896. The platinum palladium prints show the gradual evolution of dress from the Risha to the saree, lehenga and European styles seen on the young princesses. The prints were never meant for public viewing and are a rare and revealing record of the women in the palace from this era.

This collection showcases the versatility of the Risha as an accessory. Used as a belt or sash, turban and bandeau, the Risha gives each look a distinct Tripuri identity when used in conjunction with traditional Reang coin and bead necklaces.